OUTDOORS

Rancho de Chimayó: an authentic 35-minute day trip.

By Jamey IceOctober 2020 3 min read
Rancho de Chimayo's hacienda at dusk with glowing windows and chile ristras

Rancho de Chimayó is about a 35-minute scenic drive north of Santa Fe — and it's the right shorter day trip when Ghost Ranch is too much to commit to but you want to get out of town for an authentic New Mexican dining experience in a beautiful setting.

The restaurant itself is in a 19th-century adobe hacienda in the village of Chimayó, and the building is half the experience. Multiple dining rooms, a covered sunroom, an outdoor patio with views across the Sangre de Cristo foothills, fireplaces in the colder months, and the kind of unhurried service that fits the room. We typically aim for lunch — the light is best, the patio is most usable, and you get back to Santa Fe with the afternoon still ahead of you.

The food is the kind of traditional New Mexican that Chimayó is famous for. Carne adovada, posole, enchiladas, tamales — all built around chile that's grown locally and prepared the way it's been prepared in this valley for generations. The Chimayó Cocktail (apple juice, gold tequila, crème de cassis, lime) is the house drink and the right thing to order; the prickly pear margaritas are the second order. Enjoy them on the outdoor patio or in the sunroom.

Don't miss the historic chapel located right next door. The Santuario de Chimayó is one of the most visited Catholic pilgrimage sites in the United States — a small adobe church built in the early 1800s, famous for its "holy dirt" believed by many to have healing properties. Whether you read it as religious site or as cultural landmark or as just an extraordinarily beautiful old building, it's a meaningful five-to-fifteen-minute stop right after lunch.

Why this trip matters in the rotation: it's the version of "get out of Santa Fe" that takes a half-day instead of a full day. Bandelier is full-day. Ghost Ranch is full-day. Taos is essentially full-day with a serious time commitment. Chimayó is the lunch-and-back trip. You leave at 11:30, you're back by 3:00, you've had an exceptional meal in a beautiful setting and visited one of the more meaningful spiritual sites in the Southwest.

Practical notes. Reservations recommended, especially on weekends and during high season. The drive from Santa Fe is north on US 285, then onto State Road 76 toward Chimayó — a winding scenic road through the Hispanic farming villages of the Española Valley. Pleasant in any season; spectacular in late September through October when the cottonwoods turn yellow. Cards accepted at the restaurant; small cash donation appropriate at the chapel if you're not buying anything from the gift shop.

Pair it with: the High Road to Taos if you've got more time and want to extend the day (the route continues from Chimayó through Truchas and Las Trampas, with stunning village churches and views along the way), or a stop at Nambé Falls on a longer return drive.

The right shorter day trip when Ghost Ranch is too much to commit to. You're back in town by mid-afternoon with hours to spare, and you've had one of the best meals in the region in a building that feels like the New Mexico people travel to find.

WRITTEN BY

Jamey Ice

Co-owner of Casa de Ice and Casa de Camino. Three generations into the family Santa Fe story. Read more →

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