FIELD NOTES · THE ICE STAYS BLOG

Santa Fe through
our eyes.

Restaurants, hikes, galleries, and the long answers to the questions our guests keep asking. Written by us, not a content agency.

Latest dispatches.

Skillet queso with tortillas and salsa spread across a lunch table

FOOD & DRINK

Where to eat in Santa Fe: our honest short list.

The restaurants the Ices actually book — from a slow brunch at Pasqual's to a milestone dinner at Sazon.

6 min read
The high desert outside Santa Fe from above

TRIP PLANNING

Santa Fe in three days: a realistic itinerary.

How to see the Plaza, the mountains, and the best food without spending your entire vacation in a car.

10 min read
The hot tub on the patio at Casa de Ice

WELLNESS

The wellness trio: sauna, cold plunge, repeat.

Why we put a sauna and cold plunge in the sunroom at Casa de Ice — and how to actually use a 104° / 54° contrast cycle.

5 min read
A kid in a pink snowsuit sitting in fresh deep snow

WINTER

Skiing Santa Fe with kids: the realistic version.

Thirty minutes from the house, a real mountain with family-friendly amenities, and how we run a ski day.

5 min read
Two red and green chile Christmas enchilada plates at The Shed

FOOD & DRINK

The Shed: our favorite traditional New Mexican, and how to actually get a table.

Hands-down our favorite traditional New Mexican — chicken enchiladas Christmas-style, green chili stew, and gold coin margaritas. The reservation strategy matters.

5 min read
Sazon's dining room with viga ceilings and Frida Kahlo portraits

FOOD & DRINK

Sazon: the dinner that makes the whole trip.

Our absolute favorite upscale restaurant in Santa Fe. Elevated New Mexican, sophisticated room, and the two dishes you have to order.

4 min read
Cafe Pasqual's mural-covered dining room strung with papel picado, full of diners

FOOD & DRINK

Breakfast at Pasqual's: the wait, the seed bread, and the move that makes it easy.

Our favorite breakfast spot on the Plaza — a 15–30 minute wait that's always worth it, plus the toy store across the street that turns the wait into a win with kids.

4 min read
Mom and daughter hugging at a garlanded patio brunch table

FOOD & DRINK

Harry's Roadhouse: why it's our default dinner.

American comfort with a Southwest tilt, an eclectic rotating menu, the back patio you should always request — and pies worth saving room for.

4 min read
Mom and daughter soaking in the rock grotto tub at Ten Thousand Waves

WELLNESS

Ten Thousand Waves: book the private tub, then stay for lunch.

An iconic Japanese-inspired spa in the mountains. The private hot tub session with its own cold plunge and sauna is the move — and Izanami after is the win.

5 min read
Visitors seated inside the glowing fantasy tree cave at Meow Wolf's House of Eternal Return

FAMILY

Meow Wolf with kids: weird in the best way.

An immersive, interactive art experience unlike anything else. Kids absolutely love it. Adults do too.

4 min read
A girl in a yellow bow watching the graffiti-painted Sky Railway train roll past

EXPERIENCES

Sky Railway: the historic train ride that turns into the night.

A newly restored historic train running between Santa Fe and Lamy, with themed rides — murder mysteries, folklore, music. Memorable, unique, and the tickets sell out.

4 min read
Golden-hour horseback ride toward the red cliffs at Ghost Ranch

OUTDOORS

Ghost Ranch: the day trip that's worth the 1.5-hour drive.

The O'Keeffe landscape, the Chimney Rock hike, horseback riding, and lunch at Fire and Ice or Café Abiquiú. A full day, but a complete one.

6 min read
Kids sitting in a carved cavate opening in the tuff cliffs at Tsankawi

OUTDOORS

Tsankawi: our favorite easy hike, and the one that surprises every guest.

A short trail past old Native American caves with spectacular views from a plateau. A few steep ladders. The most memorable two hours we send people out for.

5 min read
Family walking a wildflower meadow trail in the Sangre de Cristos

OUTDOORS

Alamo Vista: our absolute favorite hike in Santa Fe.

Challenging, pretty steep, and rewarded with a panoramic view from the top of the ski basin. Especially gorgeous in the fall when the aspens turn.

5 min read
Pies, cookies, and baked goods on the counter at Cafe Fina

FOOD & DRINK

Cafe Fina: the close-to-home counter spot.

Casual counter-service on Old Las Vegas Hwy — close to both houses, kid-friendly patio with a small playground.

3 min read
Mom and daughter having breakfast at The Pantry's patio table

FOOD & DRINK

The Pantry Rio: an easy Plaza-adjacent breakfast.

A fun spot near the Plaza on Galisteo with minimal wait and a great patio. The Chili Relleno Omelette with green chili is incredible.

3 min read
The pastry counter inside Clafoutis French bakery

FOOD & DRINK

Clafoutis: a French bakery off Cordova.

A wonderful French bakery off Cordova Road, perfect for breakfast pastries or brunch. The kids love the take-out counter.

3 min read
Modern General's bright white interior with menu chalkboards and communal table

FOOD & DRINK

Modern General Feed & Seed: the healthy brunch on Cerrillos.

A fantastic healthy brunch option on Cerrillos with great juices, avocado toast, coffee, and gluten-free options. The Acai Teffcakes are the dish.

3 min read
The baker pointing at Revolution Bakery's hand-lettered gluten-free breads chalkboard

FOOD & DRINK

Revolution Bakery: 100% gluten-free, sells out fast.

Order online — the donuts and cinnamon rolls go quickly. A great option for guests with dietary restrictions.

3 min read
Two kids toasting drink cans at a patio table

FOOD & DRINK

Henry & The Fish: casual café near the Plaza.

Breakfast, smoothies, salads, sandwiches, and excellent La Colombe coffee — plus matcha, lavender lattes, and creative drinks.

3 min read
The Apothecary's tonic bar interior with its red halo ceiling and yantra mural

FOOD & DRINK

Apothecary: oxygen bar and cacao coffee on the Plaza.

A unique breakfast and lunch spot in the Plaza featuring health-conscious food, an oxygen bar, and cacao coffee drinks.

3 min read
The hand-painted Welcome to the Teahouse sign on the adobe wall at 821 Canyon Road

FOOD & DRINK

The Teahouse: our absolute favorite lunch on Canyon Road.

Great teas, coffee, sandwiches, and salads — paired perfectly with an afternoon of gallery-hopping. Put your name in and browse while you wait.

4 min read
Customers ordering at the El Parasol taco stand under its umbrella sign

FOOD & DRINK

El Parasol: hands-down the best tacos in Santa Fe.

Possibly the best in the world. Primarily a pickup spot — grab tacos to go, eat them somewhere with a view.

3 min read
Rooftop terrace under shade sails overlooking downtown Santa Fe

FOOD & DRINK

Coyote Cafe Cantina: the rooftop with the music and the view.

Casual Mexican dining with rooftop views of downtown. Lively, music is energetic, and the quesadillas are kid-approved.

3 min read
Mom and daughter in a talavera-tiled booth over breakfast plates

FOOD & DRINK

Plaza Cafe: simple, reliable, all-day breakfast on the Plaza.

A casual spot on the Plaza serving breakfast all day, plus lunch and dinner. Simple food, reliable, great location.

3 min read
Mom and daughter toasting margaritas under blue umbrellas on the Pink Adobe patio

FOOD & DRINK

Pink Adobe: easier to book than The Shed, just as good.

Our second-favorite traditional New Mexican — charming patio, cozy fireplaces, and the dishes you actually want.

3 min read
A flamenco dancer performing in front of El Farol's dancer mural

FOOD & DRINK

El Farol: tapas, flamenco, and a 100-year-old building.

Historic Spanish tapas and New Mexican cuisine on Canyon Road. Live music and a weekly flamenco show — book tickets ahead.

3 min read
Overhead of a loaded combo pizza at Upper Crust

FOOD & DRINK

Upper Crust Pizza: the easy weeknight answer.

Amazing pizzas (with great gluten-free options) and hearty salads. Two locations — near the Plaza and a convenient El Dorado spot near the houses.

3 min read
Browsing artisan market stalls of jewelry and textiles

FOOD & DRINK

Tesuque, two ways: Village Market and Il Nido.

A casual family-friendly market and an upscale wood-fired room — both in the same little town just north of Santa Fe.

4 min read
The dining room at Casa de Ice set for dinner

FOOD & DRINK

Chef Christina Snow: dinner at the house, done right.

Our go-to private chef in Santa Fe — custom menus prepared fresh at the house. Perfect for special occasions or just an elevated meal in.

3 min read
Geronimo's candle-lit dining room with the white horse painting and antler chandelier

FOOD & DRINK

Geronimo: contemporary American on Canyon Road.

Renowned cuisine, upscale ambiance, and a charming bar to start the night. They also offer a less formal bar menu — useful to know.

3 min read
The Compound's entrance portico with its carved letter wall

FOOD & DRINK

The Compound: refined contemporary American on Canyon Road.

Upscale contemporary American cuisine offering a refined dining experience — book ahead, especially in peak seasons.

3 min read
SkyFire's terrace at Bishop's Lodge: kiva fireplace lit, table set, sun flaring over the valley

FOOD & DRINK

Two luxury-hotel restaurants worth the drive: Skyfire and Terra.

Skyfire at Bishop's Lodge for the view and the happy hour. Terra at Four Seasons for the firepit, dessert, and the s'mores kit.

4 min read
Izanami's lantern-strung dining room at Ten Thousand Waves

FOOD & DRINK

Izanami at Ten Thousand Waves: sushi after the hike.

Sophisticated Japanese cuisine in a beautiful mountain setting on the road to the Ski Basin. Tori no karaage, Bento Box, Chirashizushi.

3 min read
People working over coffee inside Iconik's yellow-walled Lupe cafe

FOOD & DRINK

Iconik Coffee: two locations, both worth knowing.

Excellent coffee, sandwiches, tacos, and a charming patio at the Lupe location — and a downtown spot inside a cozy bookstore steps from the Plaza.

3 min read
A chocolate elixir in a blue talavera cup at Kakawa Chocolate House

FOOD & DRINK

Kakawa Chocolate House: the afternoon hot chocolate move.

An artisanal hot chocolate house on Paseo de Peralta. Kids and adults love sampling the unique creative flavors.

3 min read
A couple with two cocktails at a patio table

FOOD & DRINK

Five downtown cocktail bars we keep on rotation.

Secreto, Gruet, Bar Norte, Tonic, and Del Charro — five very different rooms, all walkable from the Plaza.

5 min read
A kid shaping clay at a busy pottery studio table

FAMILY

Tumbleroot Pottery Pub: pottery, beers, and the kid-time hack.

A fun family-friendly downtown spot where you buy clay and make pottery while you sip locally made brews and cocktails.

3 min read
A chile-rimmed margarita on a wood bar table

FOOD & DRINK

Two happy hours we keep returning to.

Skyfire at Bishop's Lodge for the view and the early window. Dinner for Two for the upscale evening one.

3 min read
The Santa Fe Brewing Co. Next Exit sign with the brewery campus and mountains behind

FOOD & DRINK

The Santa Fe brewery short list.

Second Street, Santa Fe Brewing Co., Rowley Farmhouse Ales, and Tumbleroot Brewery — the four taprooms we actually go to.

4 min read
La Choza's hand-carved and painted wooden door sign

FOOD & DRINK

La Choza: The Shed's casual sister in the Railyard.

Same fantastic New Mexican food, casual inviting atmosphere — and a five-minute walk from Sky Railway.

3 min read
A string-lit adobe courtyard set with red-cushioned chairs

FOOD & DRINK

La Casa Sena: patio margaritas, indoor show tunes.

Mediterranean-inspired cuisine near the Plaza with a wonderful outdoor patio. Inside, servers perform live show tunes — yes, really.

3 min read
Overhead festive spread of mole, tostadas, ceviche, and cocktails at Paloma

FOOD & DRINK

Paloma: upmarket Mexican with serious cocktails.

Upmarket Mexican cuisine featuring exceptional craft cocktails in a vibrant setting near the Railyard.

3 min read
Green chile cheeseburger platters with chips and sweet potato fries

FOOD & DRINK

Bobcat Bite: the green chili cheeseburger close to home.

Outstanding burgers and sandwiches on Old Las Vegas Trail. The famous Green Chili Cheeseburger with truffle fries is the order.

3 min read
Golden-hour walk under the portal at the Santa Fe Plaza

EXPERIENCES

The Plaza: where every Santa Fe trip starts.

The historic heart of Santa Fe — unique shops, vibrant galleries, local markets, and the lively atmosphere that defines the city.

3 min read
Family wandering a Canyon Road gallery sculpture garden

EXPERIENCES

Canyon Road: 50+ galleries and the slowest afternoon you'll plan.

Park at the bottom, browse the galleries on the way up, finish with lunch at The Teahouse or drinks at The Compound. The Friday gallery openings are their own event.

4 min read
At the counter of O'Farrell Hat Company, hats lining the walls

EXPERIENCES

O'Farrell Hat Company: the iconic custom hatmaker on the Plaza.

An iconic custom hat shop in Santa Fe. Stop by and tell Scott O'Farrell we sent you — great experience, quality hats.

3 min read
Family crossing a snowy downtown Santa Fe shopping street

EXPERIENCES

Nambé Store: locally crafted home goods on the Plaza.

Beautiful, uniquely crafted items made locally in Santa Fe. Great for home goods and special gifts — the prices are often excellent.

3 min read
Strolling past storefronts under a downtown portal

EXPERIENCES

Three consignment shops worth the detour.

Double Take for resale boots and jewelry. The Raven for upscale furniture and antiques. Goler Shoes for the boots Melissa never leaves without.

4 min read
Shelves of quirky toys and trinkets inside Doodlet's

FAMILY

Doodlet's: the toy store that makes the Pasqual's wait disappear.

A charming toy store filled with quirky gifts and toys near Pasqual's on the Plaza — the kid-friendly hack for the brunch wait.

3 min read
The adobe exterior of the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum with visitors outside

EXPERIENCES

The Georgia O'Keeffe Museum: the one museum to do.

Explore the life and groundbreaking art of one of America's most celebrated artists. Essential viewing for any art lover visiting Santa Fe.

3 min read
A giant colorful alebrije sculpture on Milner Plaza at Museum Hill

EXPERIENCES

Museum of International Folk Art: colorful, engaging, uniquely Santa Fe.

World-renowned, with an extraordinary collection of folk art from around the globe. Colorful, engaging, and uniquely Santa Fe.

3 min read
The miraculous double-helix spiral staircase inside Loretto Chapel

EXPERIENCES

Two more downtown stops: SITE Santa Fe and Loretto Chapel.

SITE for cutting-edge contemporary art. Loretto for the famous miracle staircase — a quick 15- to 20-minute stop.

3 min read
A child touching a glowing light-projection wall at Explora

FAMILY

Two kid museums worth knowing: Children's Museum and Explora.

Hands-on local exhibits in Santa Fe; a bigger interactive science center in Albuquerque, paired with lunch at Saw Mill Market.

4 min read
A Sandia Peak tram car suspended high above the mountain slopes

FAMILY

Sandia Peak Tramway: the panoramic ride down south.

The tram climbs nearly 4,000 feet to the top of Sandia Peak in Albuquerque — kids and adults equally enjoy it. Reservations if you're dining at the top.

3 min read
A bather in a mineral pool at Ojo Caliente with the adobe bathhouse behind

WELLNESS

Two great spa alternates: Four Seasons and Ojo Santa Fe.

When you can't get the private tub at Ten Thousand Waves, these two are the answer. One luxurious resort spa, one natural thermal soaking experience.

3 min read
A high-desert canyon rim trail outside Santa Fe

OUTDOORS

Sun Mountain: the orientation hike, close to home.

A quick drive down Old Santa Fe Trail from both houses — short (but challenging), scenic, with good elevation and beautiful views.

3 min read
Kids climbing the wooden ladder into a cavate at Bandelier

OUTDOORS

Bandelier National Monument: cliff dwellings and well-maintained trails.

Historic cave dwellings and cliff houses about 50 minutes northwest. Arrive early to avoid crowds.

3 min read
Five kids on a golden-aspen meadow trail in fall

OUTDOORS

Three easy Santa Fe hikes for slow days.

Hyde Park Waterfall for families and kids. Dale Ball Trails for an interconnected downtown network. Aspen Vista Picnic Site for a gentle scenic stop.

4 min read
Family descending a walkway into a rocky canyon

OUTDOORS

Three more challenging hikes worth the climb.

Winsor Peak for alpine vistas. Borrego/Bear Wallows for a forested loop especially beautiful in autumn. Nambé Falls for a summer water hike.

4 min read
The rail trail with the painted Sky Railway train passing in the distance

OUTDOORS

Nine Mile Road "Rail Trail": another short option close to home.

A short, scenic trail very close to both houses, just a quick drive down Old Santa Fe Trail. Good elevation, beautiful views.

3 min read
Kids paddling inflatable kayaks through Rio Grande whitewater

OUTDOORS

White water rafting: three rivers, three speeds.

Santa Fe Rafting Company is our favorite outfitter — the Taos Box for adventurers, the Orilla Verde for families, the Race Course for beginners.

4 min read
Mass ascension of hot air balloons at the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta

OUTDOORS

Two slower outdoor experiences: hot air balloons and the Pecos River.

A balloon ride and a quiet day on the river — both 30 minutes from town, both worth carving out a morning for.

3 min read
The carved cave dwellings and ladder on the cliff face at Puye

OUTDOORS

Puye Cliffs: a guided tour of historic cliff dwellings.

Take a guided tour of Native American cliff dwellings near Española. A slower-paced but rewarding cultural experience.

3 min read
Rancho de Chimayo's hacienda at dusk with glowing windows and chile ristras

OUTDOORS

Rancho de Chimayó: an authentic 35-minute day trip.

An authentic New Mexican lunch in a beautiful setting — prickly pear margaritas on the patio and the historic chapel right next door.

3 min read
El Paragua's stone exterior with its wooden arch sign in Espanola

FOOD & DRINK

El Paragua: traditional New Mexican in Española.

Same family as El Parasol. Incredible traditional dishes and fantastic margaritas served by the pitcher. Don't judge it from the outside.

3 min read
The family on the Balloon Fiesta field surrounded by rising balloons

FAMILY

Albuquerque: an under-an-hour day trip with kids.

Saw Mill Market for lunch, the Museum of Natural History and Explora for kids, and the Sandia Peak Tramway for the view that ends the day.

3 min read

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