EXPERIENCES

Two more downtown stops: SITE Santa Fe and Loretto Chapel.

By Jamey IceOctober 2021 3 min read
The miraculous double-helix spiral staircase inside Loretto Chapel

Photo: Giewiz, CC BY-SA 4.0, license, via Wikimedia Commons

Two short museum stops worth folding into a downtown day, neither of which needs to be a half-day commitment. SITE Santa Fe for the cutting-edge contemporary art. Loretto Chapel for the famous miracle staircase. They sit on opposite ends of the same downtown loop, and you can do both in an afternoon with time for coffee in between.

SITE Santa Fe is in the Railyard district, a short walk from the farmers market and the Sky Railway platform. It's a contemporary art museum focused on innovative and thought-provoking exhibits — installations, video, large-scale work, the kind of art you don't see at the more traditional museums in town. If you're interested in cutting-edge modern art, this is the room. If you're not, it's still a useful counterpoint to the traditional Western and Native art that dominates everywhere else in Santa Fe.

The exhibits rotate every few months, so the experience varies. Sometimes it's a single artist's full installation; sometimes it's a group show on a theme. The building itself is modern industrial, which is rare in this adobe town, and that contrast is part of why the work lands. Plan an hour, maybe ninety minutes if a particular show grabs you.

Loretto Chapel is the opposite kind of stop — small, historic, contained. It's famous for its miracle staircase, a spiral wooden staircase built in the 1800s by a mystery carpenter who, by the legend, arrived, completed the work without nails or central support, and disappeared without payment. The staircase looks structurally improbable and has fascinated engineers and pilgrims for well over a century. Whether you read the story as miraculous or just an extraordinary piece of joinery, the chapel itself is beautiful — small, well-preserved, the kind of stop that asks for a quiet fifteen to twenty minutes.

There's a small admission fee at Loretto. SITE has variable admission depending on the show; check ahead. Both are easy to walk to from the Plaza or from a downtown hotel; they're a fifteen-minute walk apart from each other, with shops and coffee in between.

Practical notes. SITE doubles as good rainy-afternoon refuge — Santa Fe gets monsoon afternoons in July and August, and a contemporary museum is the right kind of indoor activity. Loretto is short enough that even kids who hate museums can be talked into it. Both close at standard museum hours, so plan for daytime.

Pair them with: a coffee at Iconik's downtown bookstore location between stops, or a lunch at Henry & The Fish or Plaza Cafe right after. For a fuller art day, the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum is a few blocks from Loretto and the museums on Canyon Road are an easy continuation. You can build a real museum day around these two, or use them as the cultural sprinkle on a day that's mostly about something else.

WRITTEN BY

Jamey Ice

Co-owner of Casa de Ice and Casa de Camino. Three generations into the family Santa Fe story. Read more →

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