The Shed: our favorite traditional New Mexican, and how to actually get a table.

Of every traditional New Mexican restaurant in Santa Fe, The Shed is the one we keep coming back to. It's right on the Plaza, and it's been on our family list for as long as we can remember.

Order the chicken enchilada plate Christmas-style — that's New Mexican shorthand for both red and green chile, and fair warning: it's spicy. The green chili stew is the other thing we always end up ordering. And the gold coin margarita is the version we measure other margaritas against.

The reservation strategy is non-negotiable. Call at least a week in advance. Same-week walk-ups don't really happen here.

If you can't get The Shed, the closest thing is La Choza in the Railyard — same family, same recipes. For something with its own character, go to Casa Chimayo on West Water Street (the sign says Bella's) — Chimayó red chile, and a walled back patio that's the seat to ask for. Order the blue corn enchiladas. Different room, and a good night. (Pink Adobe used to be the answer here. It has since rebuilt its kitchen and reworked the menu, so it's an occasion dinner now rather than a backup plan.)

The Shed has been doing the same plate of food beautifully for a long time. That's exactly why it's on this list.